In order not to reduce the productivity of raspberries, it is recommended to grow it in one place for no more than 4 years, and then transplant it. Due to the small size of the sites, gardeners usually transplant all bushes at once. And the next year after this, they remain practically without a crop, collecting a small number of berries from transplanted and low-pruned plants.
By choosing another raspberry transplant technology, I harvest annually. I do it like that. After harvesting the predecessor (onions, early potatoes, tomatoes) at the end of July, I dig holes 50 × 60 cm in depth 50 cm at a distance of 50-60 cm in a row, 125-130 cm between rows. I put a bucket (8-10 kg) of rotted manure in the pit. I seal it and cover it with earth (the top layer from the pit) mixed with mineral fertilizers - 35-40 g of ammophos, 10 g of potassium salt or 60-80 g of ash. This mixture, in turn, is covered with a thick (10 cm) layer of soil.
In late July - the first half of August, replanting shoots or well-developed offspring of raspberries are transplanted. After planting, I trim the top of the plant by only 10-15 cm. I tie each of them to a peg or to a trellis. I make a hole and water 6-8 liters of water per bush. On the second or third day, the area planted with raspberries is mulched with fresh straw rabbit droppings and, in the absence of rain, systematically watered through a spray. I strictly monitor that the soil is constantly moist.
When planting in this way, raspberries take root well before frosts. The following year, spring shoots form lateral shoots on the stems, and on them - flowers and berries, which are enough for the family. This is one way to harvest the first year after transplanting. But there is another way in which raspberries bear fruit in the first year after transplantation and yield a much larger crop.
It is as follows. After harvesting in the same area, I remove the raspberry stems that have weathered, leaving only 1-2 substitution shoots. So that they develop well, until the end of the growing season, I systematically remove excess growth. I attach the shoots to stakes or wire trellis. Between the bushes, lightly loosening the soil, while closing up the manure mulch into the ground. In dry weather, water the plants through the sprayer until the fall. And before the onset of frost, bushes are carefully spudded so as not to damage the roots.
In the spring I level the soil with which the bushes were spudded, slightly loosening it between the bushes. I cut the tops of the shoots by 10-15 cm, and those that are damaged - to a healthy place.
I leave the stems spudded with earth until the main buds open and the first leaves grow by 1.5-2 cm. Then around the bush in a radius of 15-20 cm I cut the roots to a full bayonet of a shovel and carefully rip out the bush. Without damaging the young shoots and rhizome, I remove the remains of old stems. I dip the roots of the bush in a clay mash.
In the pits prepared since autumn by the method described above, I plant young plants. Care for raspberries and autumn and spring planting is to mulch the soil, remove weeds, watering.
Specially watched the raspberries of one and the other transplant timing. He gave her the same plot, fertilized and looked after her the same way, and the yield from spring planting bushes with already formed leaves turned out to be much higher. He even calculated the berries: on average, he picked 75 berries from the shoot of an autumn planting bush, and 118 from bushes replanted in the spring. Berries from plants transplanted in the spring were almost all the same in size and typical in shape for this variety.
This cannot be said of plants transplanted in the fall. In my opinion, this is because at an important moment for the plant they were not injured, and they were less damaged in the winter.